Step 1: Cut 2 pieces of Canvas 21" x 19"

Step 2: Cut 2 pieces of lining 20" x 18"

Step 3: Cut 2 pieces of Heat N Bond Craft Extra Firm 20" x 18"

Step 4: Fuse Heat N Bond Craft Extra Firm according to instructions onto both pieces of Canvas. This will give your bag a firm/stiffer design. Trim the canvas with Heat N Bond Craft Extra Firm attached down to 20" x 18"

Step 5: Lining pieces should be the same measurements as the two canvas pieces. You can trim off a little if needed, as long as the canvas and cotton measure the same.

Step 6: Determine the placement where you want your bikini top, keeping in mind that the 20” is the width of the bag. Center the bikini top and pin the bottom straps 8” from the top. You may need to adjust this a little for your suit, taking into consideration the seam allowances and the measurements for the boxed bottom/side seams (you will need to account for 2 1/2” in from each side for the boxed bottom).

Step 7: Pin the suit top straps 6” from each side

Step 8: Using a coordinating thread stitch your swimsuit top and straps onto one piece of your 20” x 18” canvas. Remember to leave about a 2” opening on each side of the swimsuit cups for polyfill if you decide you want to stuff your bikini. Use a walking foot on your machine.

Step 9: Stuff your swimsuit top with polyfil through the 2” openings.

Step 10: Again, using your walking foot stitch the swimsuit openings closed (add additional polyfil at this point prior to closing the hole if needed, but be sure to stuff it completely into the suit prior to stitching.

Step 11: Trim off excess swimsuit straps, leaving about 1/2” overhang, then set this part of your bag aside for now.

Step 12: Now we’re going to make the pocket. Cut the Fat Quarter to: 13.5” x 21.5”. Fold in half long ways so it measures 13.5” x 10 3/4" and sew a 1/4” seam RST along each side and the 13.5” end but leave a 4” opening along the 13.5” edge.

Step 13: Clip corners before turning; be careful not to cut through stitches, and turn right side out:

Step 14: Use a point turner to carefully push out corners.

Step 15: Press your pocket, making sure to fold under the 4” opening (we will close that opening soon) and Top stitch a 1/8” seam across the top of the pocket (along the folded 13.5” edge).

Step 16: Finger press your pocket piece in half to find the center of the 13.5” side. Also finger press one piece of your lining fabric along the 20” wide side (this will help you get your pocket perfectly centered); measure 3” inches from the top of the lining and pin your pocket in place with the 4” opening facing the bottom side of the lining. You should have approximately 3.5” of lining fabric showing on each side and 4.5” on the bottom.

Step 17: Stitch the pocket onto one of the lining pieces stitching 1/8” away from the pocket edge making sure to backstitch at the start and stop. Be careful not to sew the top closed. This will also close the opening you turned the pocket through.

Step 18: Now it’s time to make boxed bottoms! We are going to make a 5” boxed bottom, so we want to cut away 2 1/2” from each of the pieces bottom corners. Carefully mark each bottom corner of your two canvas pieces and your two lining pieces with a 2 1/2” square (taking care to make sure our pocket top is facing in the right direction).

Step 19: Once you have cut the bottom corners of your canvas and lining pieces set them aside.

Step 20: Now we’re going to make the D-ring strap. Using a leftover piece of lining fabric, cut a piece 1 1/2" x 5”.

Step 21: Fold in half long ways, press, and stitch one end closed and along the 5” side with a 1/4" seam and leaving the opposite end open. Trim off excess and clip curves. Using your turning tubes turn right side out.

Step 22: Set this piece aside along with the D-Ring and Swivel Hook.

Step 23: Now we’re going to make the handle Straps! Cut two 4” WOF Strips of fabric and gather together your two 1 1/2” x 24” pieces of fusible fleece.

Step 24: Press both 4” strips in half long ways. Place your 1 1/2” x 34” pieces of fusible fleece against the fold of each piece and using the instructions for your fusible fleece press:

Step 25: Trim off the excess 1” beyond where the fusible fleece ends.

Step 26: Press the short edge of the cotton fabric over onto the top side of the fusible fleece.

Step 27: Fold in the two 1” ends and press. Press the long edge of the cotton over on top of the opposite edge and fusible fleece, tuck the excess under and clip.

Step 28: Top stitch 1/8” around all four sides of both straps to hold everything into place, backstitching at your start and stop. Set your straps aside (using a walking foot will help stitch through the thickness).

Step 29: Now let’s assemble our bag! Stitch down both sides and the bottom of the canvas pieces using a 3/8” seam. Stitch down both sides of the lining pieces and the bottom but leave a 5” opening on the bottom of the lining (this is where we will turn our bag right side out). NOTE: do not sew the box cut areas yet:

Step 30: Flatten the side seams of your canvas pieces with the bottom seams, nesting your seams, and pin/clip in place. Stitch a 3/8” seam. Remember to backstitch at the start and stop of each seam.

Step 31: Do the same for the lining pieces.

Step 32: Remember it’s importing that you use a 3/8” seam on all pieces. Consistency will allow for your bag and lining to fit correctly.

Step 33: Using your point turner, carefully push out the corners of the bag.

Step 34: Gather your canvas bag, lining, D-Ring and D-Ring strap.

Step 35: Leaving your lining RST slip your canvas bag into the lining with the canvas bag right sides out. Clip all the way round the top making sure to match the side seams.

Step 36: Slip your D-Ring onto the cotton strip you made earlier.

Step 37: Choose where you would like your D-ring to hang on the bag. If you want it on the front side,place it about 3” from the seam (keeping in mind that we’ve made a 5” boxed bottom with the 2 1/2” squares cut out earlier). Slip the D-ring in between the lining and the canvas bag and pin in place with the D-ring loop facing down into the bag. Leave a little excess overhang so you know what to watch for when stitching the bag closed.

Step 38: Stitch 3/8” all the way around the bag taking care when stitching over the swimsuit straps and D-Ring strap. Trim off the excess swimsuit straps and excess D-ring fabric.

Step 39: Carefully turn your bag out through the opening you left in the lining.

Step 40: Now it’s time to seal up the lining opening. Carefully fold the lining in and pin.

Step 41: Sew 1/8” across the lining opening with a coordinating thread.

Step 42: Carefully push your lining into the bag using your point turner on the corners. Now clip your lining down over the top seam.

Step 43: Top stitch your lining securely along the top of the bag about 1/8” away from where the lining and canvas meet, using care when crossing over the loop with the D-ring and straps. Doesn’t that give it a fun trim across the top.

Step 44: Take a 14mm grommet and Dritz Disappearing Ink Pen and mark where you want the placement of the eyelet/grommet. Since each swimsuit is different you may have to adjust your measurement for this. Place your marks 5” from the side seam with the bag lying flat on both the front and back sides. Remember: we have a 5” boxed bottom so 2 ½” from each seam with be the side of the bag when completed. You will mark 4 holes. Take your time when determining placement of your eyelet holes.

Step 45: Using the Vario Creative Tool and the 14mm hole punching accessories punch a hole on your marked areas, punching a total of 4 holes (two on the front and two on the back). Use care when punching that you’re only punching through the canvas and lining for each placement of where you want to place a grommet.

Step 46: Take your two strap pieces and run each end through one of the eyelets and making a knot to secure.

Step 47: Now it’s time to make the wristlet! Take a piece of leftover cotton fabric (I used leftover fabric from the pocket) and cut it to 13” x 2”. You will also need the 12” x 1/2” piece of fusible fleece, and the swivel hook.

Step 48: Place your fusible fleece 1/2” from one long edge and fuse into place according to the directions (make sure to move your ruler away prior to ironing).

Step 49: Press the 1/2” side of the cotton fabric over the fusible fleece.

Step 50: Now press the long side over on top of the fusible fleece and the 1/2" side previously pressed.

Step 51: You should have 1/4" overhang. Carefully tuck that 1/4" under and clip like you did for the straps earlier.

Step 52: Topstitch 1/8” only the open/clipped edge of the wristlet strap starting and stopping at least 1” away from each end. Tuck under the open ends and use a clip to hold.

Step 53: Slip the swivel hook onto the wristlet strap.

Step 54: Tuck one raw end into the opposite folded over edge and clip to hold in place and stitch to secure (be careful not to twist the strap prior to stitching). Holding the swivel hook out of the way carefully stitch the rest of the open areas closed and then topstitch 1/8” down the opposite side.

Step 55: Pull the swivel hook to the end where the opening is, having it about 1” away from the opening seam. While keeping the swivel hook out of the way, stitch across the seam where the ends meet to hold the swivel hook into place, back stitching to secure.

And you’re done! Congratulations on making the Bikini Upcycle Beach Bag!