Step 1: From Main Fabric (A) cut following:

• one 13" x 10½” rectangle
• one 3" wide strip along the width of fabric (~35" long)
• one 13" x 2½” strip one 13" x 3½” strip one 13" x 27" rectangle

From Accent fabric (B) cut following: six 6½” x 7½” rectangles

three 6½” x 15" rectangles

From fusible fleece cut: three 6" x 15" rectangles From stiff interfacing (or foam board) cut one 13"x27" rectangle

Step 2: To make the triangle pockets on top of the main pockets, you will be making one-seam, 3D Flying Geese block first.

Take one of fabrics A (main fabric) rectangles and fold it in half (place short edges together), with wrong sides together. Gently finger-press (or use iron) the fold to make it stable.

To make the “sandwich”, take one 6 ½"x7 ½" rectangle of fabric B (accent) and place it right side up. Place your folded rectangle on top of it, with the fold on the top, matching bottom and right raw edges. NOTE: the fold of the A rectangle will NOT match the top of the B rectangle and that is how it should be. Place the second 6 ½"x7 ½" rectangle of fabric B on top, with right side down. 

Step 3: Pin this “sandwich” to secure it. With the rectangle fold kept on the top, sew the side seam with ¼" seam allowance.

Step 4: Open the top square and press the seam (it is easier to just press it to the side). Now take the folded rectangle and open it up, until it forms the triangle and its bottom raw edge matches the rectangles bottom raw edges. Make sure triangle lays flat, raw edges are matched and then press it by placing the iron straight down. You made your 3D Flying Geese!

NOTE: the bottom edge of the triangle is still loose. Use basting stitch to secure it to background by stitching less than ¼" from the bottom raw edge.

Make total of 3 using the rest of your cut pieces.

Step 5: To sew on the lining to all three pockets you just created, take one of the 6 ½"x 15" rectangles of fabric B and place it on top of one of your pockets, right sides together.

secure with pins and stitch with ¼” seam allowance, on the long side, where the tip of your triangle is.

TIP: sew with the triangle piece on the top since that way you will see where your triangle tip is and will not cut it off with stitching.

Step 6: Press the seam allowance towards the lining. In order to have a better, crisp edge of your pocket, stitch a line on the lining, just 1/8" away from the seam.

Fold the lining under the pocket and press well. Place a ruler connecting that mark and the top corner of the pocket and cut along the ruler. Repeat the process on the other side of the pocket.

Repeat the process with remaining pieces to make a total of 3 pockets.

Step 7: To give your pockets some firmness, take the 6"x15" rectangle of the fusible fleece and place it between the two layers of your pocket. Once fusible fleece is positioned, fold back down the pocket front and press to secure the fleece in place.

Step 8: To make the final pocket shape, take a marking pen and ruler and make a mark on the bottom long edge of the pocket, 1" away from each side.

Step 9: Place a ruler connecting that mark and the top corner of the pocket and cut along the ruler. Repeat the process on the other side of the pocket.

Step 9: Place a ruler connecting that mark and the top corner of the pocket and cut along the ruler. Repeat the process on the other side of the pocket.

Step 10: To make three wall organizer units you will now need to attach each pocket to the piece of fabric A (main fabric).

Take one 13" x 8½” rectangle of fabric A and one pocket you just created, place the pocket on the fabric A rectangle, both right side up and bottom raw edge matching. Pin in the middle to secure. The sides of the pocket will be hanging outside of the fabric A rectangle but bottom corners should match.

Move the side edge of the pocket so that aligns with the side of the fabric A rectangle and pin in place. 

Step 11: Repeat with the other side of the pocket to get it to look like shown on photo 3. At this point, sides and bottom edge of the pocket are aligned with the sides and bottom edge of the fabric A rectangle.

Stitch together all around the pocket edges (sides and bottom only), using ¼” seam allowance, to form one wall organizer unit.

Repeat with two other units, except that one of them will be using a bigger fabric A rectangle - the 13" x 10½” one. That is the TOP unit.

Attach all three units together (in order as shown), with units right sides together and using ¼” seam allowance,

Attach the 13" x 2½ strip of fabric A to the bottom of the wall organizer to complete the front of your wall organizer.

Step 12: To make the hanging loops, take the 3" wide strip (that is

~35" long), fold it in half lengthwise, wrong sides together, and press well.

Open up the folded strip and now fold each of the long edges to the center fold and press well.

Finally, fold the strip again in half lengthwise and press well.

Stitch the long edges of the folded strip approximately 1/8" from the edge to form the strip for the hanging loops.

Step 12: Cut three 5" long and four 4½” long pieces from the strip you created. 5" long strips are for your top hanging loops and 4½” long ones are for the bottom.

Fold the strips in half, arrange the top and bottom loops so that they are spread equally along the top and bottom of the wall organizer and clip (or pin) them to secure in place. The loop raw edge should align with the organizer raw edge.

Stitch the loops in place with a bit less than ¼” seam allowance.

NOTE: due to multiple folds of fabric these loops will be thick so use special care while stitching them (slow down and use sharp needle, size 80 minimum).

Step 13: To finish your wall organizer you will need to attach the back and insert the supporting stiff stabilizer.

To attach the back to the wall organizer take the remainining fabric A pieces, the 13" x 27" rectangle and the 13" x 3½” strip.

First hem one short edge of the 13" x 27" rectangle by folding it twice (½” each fold) and stitching the folded edge in place. Now your back piece is about 1" shorter than the organizer front and that is intentional.

Hem the long edge of the 13" x 3½” strip the same way.

Step 14: Arrange the wall organizer front, back and the small strip right sides together.

Front piece with right side up, large back piece right side down and small back piece on top of the large back piece as shown. Make sure all hanging loops are inside and that all raw edges of top and back pieces are now all aligned.

Clip (or pin) in place all the way around and stitch carefully all the way around with ¼” seam allowance.

Turn your wall organizer right side out (by flipping the small back piece and opening the bottom). As you turn it right side out, all the hanging loops will be in the right position. Make sure to poke all the corners and edges and give the edges a good press. Now you can insert your support piece of stiff interfacing (or foam board) and flip the short back piece over it so it is securely inside. 

And you’re done! Congratulations on making the Fabric Wall Organizer!