Step 1: If using new jeans, be sure to wash them first. Especially with dark wash jeans, it is possible they will leach a lot of denim dye during the first few wash cycles and that dye can affect the fabrics used on the quilt patches. 

Step 2: Cut fabric into 2.5” wide strips, this pattern is great for using up any jelly roll fabric strips leftover.

Step 3: Use the 45 degree line indicated inside the quilting ruler. This will be used to get the correct angle for cutting diamonds. 

Step 4: Align this with the bottom of the 2.5 inch strip and cut at an angle from the bottom of the strip, up to the top to create the first diamond point.

Step 5: Now, position the 45 degree line back on the bottom of the 2.5” strip and measure 2.5” along the strip. Cut again. Repeat for each diamond. Each star will need 8 diamonds and for two stars, 16 diamonds will be needed. 

Step 6: Arrange diamonds into the star formation and make four pairs from each quadrant. Diamonds will be sewn on one side, with fabrics held right sides together. 

Step 7: While sewing along the side of the diamond pairs, it can be helpful to use a small tool like a seam ripper to help guide the end point through the sewing machine. This keeps the seam allowance straight and accurate without veering off at the end. 

Step 8: When all four pairs are sewn together, set the seams with an iron. Then, open the fabrics and press the seam to one side. 

Step 9: Finally, open the seams and press them open. By setting the seam first with the fabrics still facing right sides together, it secures the seam. By pressing all to one side, it makes opening the seam easier to do and gives a much cleaner opening press. It is worth the extra steps and will help get an accurate sew on the diamond points later.

Step 10: Now, lay out the pairs back into the star formation, and separate once again into pairs. The open sides closest together will be sewn next and will require a pin to secure for accurate points. 

Step 11: Place the diamond pairs right sides together and direct a pin from the wrong side of one block, through the previous seam about ¼” in. It will go out of the right side of the top block and into the right side of the paired block, once again through that previous seam, ¼” in. This secures the fabrics and seams where they need to be for the next joining seam. 

Step 12: Press the fabric around that pin firmly so that the pin stands up perpendicular from the fabric. This is the anchor pin to help place the next two pins without shifting the fabrics. It will be removed before sewing. 

Step 13: Place a pin seam side and at the top of the block, one on either side of the perpendicular anchoring pin. 

Step 14: Remove the anchor pin. Block pairs should look like this. For this pair, the seam will be sewn alongside the grey diamond. The top pin entering into the purple diamond is only there to provide additional support and prevent the fabrics from shifting out of place. 

Step 15: Sew carefully near the pins and remove them once the needle is through the two seams that were pinned together. 

Step 16: The careful ironing to open the diamond seams and the extra pinning work will create very accurate diamond points. Repeat the pressing process from before. Set seam, press seam allowance to one side, and open the seams. 

Step 17: The last seam will join both halves together to complete the diamond star.

Step 18: The pinning process is repeated. The pin enters from the wrong side of one block half, right through the peak/ meeting point of the diamond points. 

Step 19: Then, push the pin into the peak/ meeting point of the diamonds in the next block, going into the right side of the fabric this time.

Step 20: With the first pin stood straight up, pinch the fabric surrounding it firmly with one hand. Add a pin carefully to the side, coming in at an angle and making sure not to shift the fabrics. Remove the first pin.

Step 21: Sew the final seam, using a small tool like a seam ripper again to help feed the bulk of the diamond meeting points through the presser foot and keep the pressed seams open.

Step 22: Sew as closely as possible to the pins, but remove them before they meet with the sewing machine needle.

Step 22a. The diamond stars are finished after following the same ironing process as before- set the seam, press seam allowances to one side, and open the seams for a very tidy finish to the star blocks.

Step 23: Now, it is time for the interfacing. If uncertain of which side of the interfacing has the glue, look and feel for the bumpy/rough side of the interfacing. This side will be referenced to as the right side because it has the glue that will help stabilize the quilt block patches. Now is a good time to make sure that the iron settings are adjusted to a lower temperature so it doesn't melt the interfacing fabric. 

Step 24: Pin the right side of the diamond star down to the WRONG side of the interfacing. The rough side of the interfacing will be touching the cutting mat, the smooth side is in contact with the right side of the diamond star. First, pin the middle down and then smooth and carefully pin each diamond. 

Step 25: Sew around the whole star, do not leave any opening for turning the star right side out. 

Step 26: Trim a little extra fabric and interfacing from around the star points to reduce bulk after turning right side out. 

Step 27: Snip at the seams, being careful not to cut through the stitches of the star block and interfacing. 

Step 28: Pinch the interfacing and pull carefully away from the star block fabric.

Step 29: Make a small cut, being sure to cut only the interfacing.

Step 30: Pull the block through the small cut and turn right side out.

Step 31: Using a point turner, finish pushing the star points out.

Step 32: Iron the block, starting from the middle of the star and working out through each point. Make sure the iron is set to a lower temperature so that the interfacing is not melted. The interfacing should be fused to the back of the star block, providing some extra stability to the fabric while giving a neat finish to the edges of the star.

Step 33: With the jeans pant leg laid flat, decide placement for the quilt block. Here, the middle seam is matched to the side seam of the jeans. To mirror accurately on both sides, note measurement from the bottom and copy it on the other leg. 

Step 34: Pin the block down, paying extra attention the the middle seam and star points so that any excess fabric is smoothed out in all directions. 

Step 35: If using a machine with an extension table or storage box, remove for easier maneuvering.

Step 36: Quilt block can be sewn down around the perimeter, or secured by free motion quilting over the whole surface of the star block. If using a FMQ foot, be sure to turn down or cover the machine’s feed dogs when putting the FMQ foot on. 

Step 37: Start near the middle of the block, working out in every direction to avoid any fabric puckers. 

Step 38: FMQ can be intimidating to try, but is truly freeing to practice. There is no right way or precise pattern to follow. Practice on a large scrap of fabric and make sure not to move the fabric with sudden, jerky movements. Just stay calm and relaxed, focusing on the flow rather than the meandering pattern. Picking a thread with low contrast can help relieve some pressure of perfection as well.

Step 1: Seam rip the desired pocket away from the jeans. If using old jeans, it may be helpful to mark where the pocket was placed originally- but there is often a very clear dye line on new jeans or wear line from old and work jeans. 

Step 2: If needed use paper, cardstock, or cardboard, make a DIY dresden plate template. Draw a straight line to build from.

Step 3: Draw a line perpendicular to the central line, mark at 0” and 1.75” Mark a line 2.5” up from the bottom line. It will be 1” wide and centered on the main center line.

Step 4: Connect endpoints of the 1” top line down to the 1.75” bottom line. Cut along four sides to make the dresden petal template. 

Step 5: Place the template under a cutting grid. Line up on the 2.5” strip scrap and cut both sides at an angle with the template as a guide. Cut 5 petals of varying scraps.

Step 6: Fold each petal lengthwise in half, right sides together and press. 

Step 7: Flip right side out and press both ends so each point is in the middle, forming a triangular petal on each end. 

Step 8: With large points on top side by side, pair petals together and sew the joining seams. Sew them together, forming an arch shape.

Step 9: Press all the seams in the same direction. Iron small scraps of interfacing to the back if desired. Just be sure to trim any visible from the front.

Step 10: Pin desired placement on the removed pocket.

Step 11: Repeat FMQ process and remember to work outwards from the middle.

Step 12: Pin pocket back into place on the jeans.

Step 13: Sew back onto the jeans, back stitching several times over the tip of the pocket at the beginning and end of each seam. This area in particular takes a lot of stress and needs securing. Follow the stitch path carefully of the seams removed before.

And you’re done! Congratulations on making the Quilted Patch Jeans!